In Part 1 of this article we considered the types of image stabilization systems out there and their pros and cons; we also looked at the functions and how you can best use them to your advantage. This part will examine what is “normalâ€, what is at the edge of a stabilizer’s ability, and how to keep your stabilizer healthy.
For some the sounds, behaviors and limitations of stabilizers can be a little confusing. Sometimes the normal sounds and behaviors are mistaken for defects by users. Usually in this case the person(s) using the equipment don’t understand the limits of the stabilizer; they get poor image results and interpret the powering up, click and shake as something broken or defective. Using a stabilizer in low light situations will minimize camera shake issues created by the person holding the camera (especially those situations where using the flash is not possible or allowed). However, this can only compensate to a certain degree and works best the harder you try to stay still (that’s why manufacturers are careful to word it as “UP TO _# of stops). Also, if you are trying to photograph a fast moving object in a low light environment without using a flash the stabilizer will not do anything prevent the motion blur of that object.
When your stabilizer isn’t working correctly it should be fairly obvious. Of course, any piece of camera equipment you want to minimize shock/jarring/impact but for units with a stabilizer this is especially true. Many stabilizers utilize ball bearings for the “glide” surface that the stabilized element or sensor rides on. Sudden trauma can cause one or more ball bearings to pop out. In body-based stabilizers if that happens a ball bearing can float around inside resulting in shorts which can fry the all the circuitry.  Another common cause of failure is specific to the lens-based systems.  There is a Flexible Printed Circuit (FPC) that powers the stabilizer. Over time the FPC will break from normal wear and tear from zooming in and out. If the lens is needlessly being zoomed in and out a lot that FPC will wear out much more quickly. The last possible thing that can go wrong with stabilizers is debris finding its way and getting stuck in where the sensor or lens element usually moves freely. When this happens a number of things can happen but generally the stabilizer goes haywire with resulting images that have the blurry look that you are usually trying to compensate for; this often will also produce a buzzing sound.